bay of plenty
Words Louise McCann
Soulful and sexy, this alluring stretch of coastline seduces at first sight. Undeniably beautiful, extremely flirtatious and with an intriguing history, she makes a wonderful hostess
Cape Town is famous for its beautiful evenings and stop-you-in-your-tracks sunsets. In winter, the sky is splashed with a palette of crimson red streaks as the sun tucks itself behind the Atlantic Ocean, ready for bed. In summer, the golden evenings linger longer. The sun draws out its warm departure to the max, perhaps captivated by the spectacle of happy, bare-skinned people languidly lolling on some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, against the striking backdrop of the Twelve Apostles mountain range. One of the most sought-after sunset strips is the 7 km stretch of prime real estate consisting of Bantry Bay, Clifton, Camps Bay and Bakoven.
The first inhabitants of this piece of coastline were the San. These hunter-gatherers roamed the land between the mountains and the sea, living on seafood and sleeping in caves. The sleeping facilities have earned a few more stars since and house a large part of Cape Town’s foreign community, some old Cape Town families and a score of well-to-do professionals. This is a relatively new incarnation though, as this royal seaside status previously belonged to Muizenberg and surrounds; the area fronting the warmer Indian Ocean that fell into genteel decay when a host of families emigrated, but is now enjoying a regenerative surge. It’s hard to imagine, when the sale of a Clifton shack reaches into the multi-millions, that this was once the place where newly-weds bought cheap and war veterans were given land as part of their payment.
Now, luxurious apartments hug the mountain slopes of Bantry Bay, clamouring for a view of sparkling sea. Seagulls swoop between the giraffe-like cranes that bear testimony to the money being poured into developing this area. With the beauteous bends of Victoria Road hugging the turquoise coast, this is the African equivalent of Monaco. At the height of summer, every balcony buzzes with an eclectic collection of locals and holidaymakers casually observing the beautiful people jogging past in designer sportswear and the slow snake of traffic winding its way towards Clifton and Camps Bay.
In the late 1700s Clifton was known as Skoenmakers Gat or Cobblers Cave. As the story goes, an old shoemaker used to live in the Clifton caves and farmers passing by on their way to sell produce in Cape Town would stop here to get their shoes mended. Around 1890 it was renamed after Bessie Clifton, who ran the only hotel in the area. Clifton is protected from Cape Town’s notorious southeaster and this, combined with its beauty, saw it become a popular summer holiday destination for locals. Sites could be leased from the Cape Town city council during the summer months, but were not sold as freehold until the early 1990s. The seaside areas of Clifton, Glen Beach and Bakoven were declared National Monuments in 1984, fortunately halting the development of massive apartment blocks spreading beyond Clifton First Beach and allowing the charming beach houses to remain and the area to retain its soul.
On hot summer days you can smell the coconut aroma of suntan oil as you walk barefoot down the steep stairs to the Clifton beaches. It’s a holiday scene, but for some lucky souls Clifton is a daily experience. ‘It’s the most beautiful setting in the world,’ says Genevieve Scott who lives in a bungalow on Clifton Fourth. ‘I especially love the mornings, it’s always still and quiet until about 10 am. But as it fills up during the day, it’s great to watch people braving the cold waters and swimming out to the famous Clifton rock, playing bat and ball or frisbee, walking their dogs or, in the evenings, picnicking with burning candles simply wedged in the sand or glowing through brown paper bags.’
And in the daytime the roaming vendors with their rhyming sales pitches add more flavour to the Clifton experience. ‘Just Juice to make you loose, Coke to make you float, a lolly to make you jolly?’
When the surf is up, locals head to the more Bohemian Glen Beach. This is the stomping ground of families who’ve lived in the area for generations. ‘If I want to see people I know, then I go to Glen Beach,’ says lifelong Camps Bay local Georgia Gardner. And if she wants to hang with the glossy posse? ‘Go to the stretch of Camps Bay in front of Sandbar,’ she smiles. ‘And if you have little kids, go to the far side of the beach in front of Primi Piatti.’
Georgia and her sister Tammy grew up in Camps Bay and were pupils at Camps Bay High. ‘Our headmaster used to have binoculars in his office and he’d regularly scan the waves to see who was bunking school,’ recalls Tammy, who once zipped herself inside a local surf hero’s board bag to avoid discovery.
A place becomes more than a mere destination when its layers of history are unfurled. Fortunately, there are still enough locals living in Camps Bay to share stories of its more recent past. ‘It’s sometimes hard to reconcile the Camps Bay of fifteen years ago with the Camps Bay of today,’ says Tammy. ‘My first job was waitressing at the Wimpy on Sunday mornings and I was paid R1 an hour. The only other rest-aurant around then was called the Pink Geranium. But in certain lights, if you keep your eyes at half-mast, you can still feel the village of old.’
Take a look through the city archives for the older Camps Bay, where you’ll find pictures of trams running along the shorefront, connecting the city to the beach. This was a state-of-the-art tourist attraction at the beginning of the twentieth century. The Pagoda restaurant and bar, the saltwater baths and the Rotunda roller-skating rink (now The Bay Hotel) were Camps Bay’s commercial drawcards in that era. Now you’ll see luxury sports cars alongside packed African taxis where the tram once was. What has remained is the palm-lined sandy beach, the incredible views of sea and mountains and a sense of being in a very special place. Bright neon signposts outside bars and restaurants have their place on this stretch of cocktails and dreams, but nature makes its presence felt from time to time.
‘At spring tide the beach sometimes hits back at being overrun the rest of the year. The sea swamps the main road and sometimes even manages to break into the beachfront restaurants. And in winter the mountain rivers roar down the Twelve Apostles, gushing out of stormwater drains and flooding the streets. It’s quite spectacular,’ says Tammy.
The Camps Bay strip is a popular destination for summer nightlife, mostly in the form of pavement cocktail culture. Lured by the beauty of the beach and sunset views, crowds merrily spill out onto the roadside. Camps Bay is indeed slick and glamorous, but there’s also substance beneath its glossy skin. Cricket, soccer, bowls, squash, tennis and lifesaving all play an important role in everyday life here. There’s something about well-used sports fields and facilities that creates a wholesome, grounded vibe. It’s this, the local schools and the approximately 5 000 families living in the suburb that keep the romance of Camps Bay village life alive. ‘There are lots of shared memories,’ says Georgia. ‘There used to be a red fire engine you could climb inside in the playground behind the Camps Bay Sports Club. Many people had their first kisses in that fire engine,’ she smiles.
A few hundred metres along the road is Bakoven, so named by the original settlers because of a large granite boulder just off the coast with a hole in it that reminded them of an old-fashioned oven. In 1918, when soldiers returned to Cape Town from the First World War, there was a housing shortage in the city and they were allowed to erect wooden bungalows here. Most of the beach houses today are still bungalow style, and are now highly sought after. Narrow paths wind their way between the cottages and down to the small, sheltered beaches scattered with pebbles and pretty shells. Bakoven is the place to escape the madding crowd and the vast boulders that jut out into the ocean are perfect for intimate evening picnics.
This sublime stretch is a juxtaposition of old and new, nature and neon. It is a very beautiful place – come along for a sundowner – or a holiday even … you may just find your niche.
THE TASTEBUD TOUR
If fresh seafood is your thing, then try The Codfather (021 438 0782). Delicious sushi is skilfully churned out at the conveyer-belt sushi bar, while in the main section of the restaurant fresh cuts of fish or shellfish are presented on a tray brought to your table, then weighed and cooked to your specifications.
At the far end of the Camps Bay strip is Primi Piatti (021 428 2923). This Italian restaurant offers big portions of delicious fare at reasonable prices. It’s got a great buzz. Waitrons in industrial orange overalls give fantastic service and the view of the sea from the outside deck isn’t half bad.
Camps Bay classic Blues Restaurant (021 438 1758) upstairs in the Promenade Centre, is a relaxed sophisticate. Their culinary offerings are Californian, Mediterranean and Cajun. This is a good place to order a complicated cocktail.
Local and international models swan in and out of Caprice (021 438 6444) surreptitiously watched from behind sunglasses by the hipster crowd. This pavement cafe does (among many other dishes) delicious bacon and Brie croissants for brunch. In season, a DJ spins the decks every night in the large lounge area.
Dizzy Jazz Café (021 438 2686) is located just behind the Promenade Centre. It’s comfortably shabby with live jazz most nights, live comedy sometimes and karaoke (for the brave or drunk) every Tuesday. If you’re on a budget then look out for their mid-week half-price pizza specials.
Walk straight off the beach and into the recently refurbished Sandbar (021 438 8336), for fresh salads and icy cocktails. This is a favourite haunt of Harley bikers on their Sunday breakfast run.
Locals know just how good the burgers are at the Camps Bay Sports Club (021 438 8971). If you’re in need of a wholesome meal and a laid-back vibe, then this is the place for you.
Zep Tepi (083 294 8774) above the Cape Town Fish Market is Camps Bay’s newest kid on the block. Smooth, clean lines, sushi and champagne and a cat-walk for impromptu fashion shows set the tone.
It’s not summer until you’ve had an ice cream at the beach – try the unusual Jack & Lime or wicked Cookies & Cream at Sinnfull (021 438 3541).
The recently revamped Salt Bar and Restaurant (021 439 6170) at The Ambassador Hotel in Bantry Bay is a good option for its awesome view, great interior and honest fare.
Stop to pick up some delicious deli goods or have a good coffee at Carlucci’s (021 439 6476) opposite The Ambassador Hotel in Bantry Bay.
PLAY
Head up to Baraza Groove Bar (021 438 1758) where huge windows open out onto a view of the sea and DJs work their African-inspired chill tunes for your pleasure. Take advantage of great specials and try your martinis both shaken and stirred on Martini Wednesdays.
Ignite (021 438 0882) goes large on Thursday nights as the crowds pour in for the biggest R&B and hip hop night in the city.
La Med (021 438 5600) is a Cape Town institution. In season it heaves with young people out to have a good time. The dress code is very casual and you may well see paragliders descending from Lion’s Head and landing on the field in front of you.
FOR CULTURE VULTURES
Theatre on the Bay (021 438 3300) is set in a beautiful old building and offers a variety of shows, comedy, cabaret and music. Book a leisurely pre-show dinner at Act 1 Theatre Café in the building and go back for dessert during the interval or after the show. All drinks can be taken into the theatre with you – very civilised. Have a nightcap in Dietrich’s Bar in the main foyer after the show.
OUTDOORS
Put on your whites and book a game of tennis at the Camps Bay Lawn Tennis Club (021 438 1414) behind The Bay Hotel. If you’re a squash enthusiast you can book a court at the Camps Bay Sports Club (021 438 8971). Energetic, outdoor types can climb to the top of Table Mountain on the Kasteels Poort trail and soak up the 360 degree views of the city. Or wander from Rontree (just above Camps Bay) down to Bakoven and picnic on the rocks. Take a friend and visit the Little Glen (accessible from Geneva Drive); a little river runs through it. Those in search of less energetic natural experiences should seek out the last rock that separates Camps Bay Beach and Glen Beach – take a seat on the top and breathe out.