A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT
Words Mandy Allen
IN FACT, SEVERAL RIVERS TRICKLE THROUGH THE HISTORY-RICH AREA OF CONSTANTIA, WHERE VERDANT SWATHES OF GREEN BELTS, TOWERING OAK TREES, EXTENSIVE VINEYARDS, A RELATIVELY SOLID SENSE OF COMMUNITY AND MORE THAN ITS FAIR SHARE OF STATELY HOMES MAKE THIS A VERITABLE SUBURBAN ARCADIA ONLY 20 MINUTES FROM THE CITY CENTRE
The Constantia valley is renowned as one of the world’s finest wine growing regions, where geography, climate and soil characteristics conspire to produce award-winning vintages. It was this discovery in the 17th century that prompted the governor of the Cape and one of its pioneering urban architects, Simon van der Stel, to establish the entire valley as a wine-growing region. Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Constantia Uitsig, Steenberg and Buitenverwachting now make up the five historic estates that form the much-frequented Constantia Wine Route, many of their buildings sensitively restored for contemporary use and their original features preserved in a time-worn state for an authentic glimpse of the past.
Once in the hands of just a few families, the landscape has gradually changed from grand farmhouses with endless vineyards to imposing mansions to large homesteads to family homes and the exclusive, high-security housing developments such as the Steenberg Golf Estate that have become so much a part of the modern South African lifestyle. (Causing a buzz in property circles right now: High Constantia, the soon-to-be-developed New Court at Alphen town house complex, a new Pam Golding initiative earmarked for a 2008 launch.) ‘Constantia remains one of the flagship suburbs of Cape Town,’ says Mick Joyce, Pam Golding Properties MD for the Western Cape. ‘You have some of the city’s most beautiful properties set in lush, leafy surroundings. The suburb really is a blue-chip investment area with its world-famous vineyards, sizeable properties and gracious homes, as well as its ample green belts which help create a tranquil, rural feel.’
There is always a perception, from those who don’t live there, that aims to sum up a suburb’s character in a word. Observatory, for example, is seen as Bohemian, rough around the edges and laid-back. The Atlantic Seaboard’s more exclusive enclaves of Fresnaye, Bantry Bay and Clifton are viewed as cosmopolitan, chic, glamorous, prosperous, faux and aloof. Mention the southern suburbs, Constantia in particular, and you’ll hear well-heeled, old money, colonial, whimsical, elite. And to some extent, this holds true.
The somewhat snobby monikers of Upper Constantia and Lower Constantia evolved to differentiate the more traditional, moneyed areas from those of the so-called middle – but nevertheless affluent – classes. Gated ambassadorial residences are peppered along its leafy drives. Constantia has also served to attract a slew of British and European ex-pats who revel in its ‘Home Counties’, mink-and-manure atmosphere. Though most conduct themselves perfectly agreeably, some of Constantia’s more high-profile foreign residents have included Lady Diana’s playboy brother Earl Charles Spencer (whose ex-wife, Victoria, still enjoys a quiet family life in the suburb), the disgraced Mark Thatcher and con-victed German fraudster Jürgen Harksen (neither of whom lives there any longer).
Leisure is a genteel affair: CEOs talk mergers, acquisitions and family holidays over 18 holes at the Steenberg Golf Estate, followed by a 16-year-old single malt at the club; full-time moms, trophy wives and the ‘twin set and pearls’ brigade meet at Melissa’s or Pastis for lunch; retirees tend to their gardens between regular trips to the Ferndale Nursery; while the popular pub and restaurant Peddlars On The Bend is the favourite post-work preserve of gently greying executives who loosen their Aquascutum ties over a pint, upstanding young men just off the rugby pitch, and privileged young Jemima Khan lookalikes discussing their dieticians, dissertations, interior designers and impending weddings. A glance at the parking lot here and at the Constantia Village shopping centre reveals that Range Rovers (in black) appear to be de rigueur. Even a drive down the oak-lined Spaanschemat River Road confirms the postcard-perfect romantic nature of the place with regular sightings of pet bunny rabbits, contented chickens and ‘Riders Crossing’ traffic signs bearing the image of what seems to be Constantia’s totem animal, the horse. (According to one local website, there are over 500 horses stabled in the Constantia Valley).
But a suburb is more than just the sum of its material parts. Constantia is a green and pleasant land and as such offers many scenic hikes, ambles, walks and horse rides. Its beautiful and fiercely protected green belts are also a firm favourite among birdwatchers who set out to spot Wood Owls, Redchested Cuckoos, Buffspotted Flufftails, Bar-throated Apalis’ and Cinnamon Doves. ‘Without a doubt it is the trees, open spaces and farm feeling that makes Constantia such a special place to live,’ says one lady who doesn’t have time to lunch, well-known South African foodie, entrepreneur and long-time Constantia resident Ina Paarman. ‘The lifestyle is more laid-back and perhaps less competitive than on the Atlantic Seaboard side. One doesn’t have to stay young forever!’
And there you have what redeems Constantia from its perceived high-and-mighty essence. Unlike other suburbs it is not interested in the vagaries of fashion or keeping up with the Joneses. Rather, it is an area determined to retain its unique countrified character by respecting tradition. Drive through any one of the luxury estate developments and it’s quickly apparent that there is not an out-of-place Tuscan monolith or hacienda-inspired villa to be seen. Stroll around Constantia Village with its low-level profile and Cape Dutch-style architecture and you’ll realise that it is in fact possible to create a shopping mall that is mindful of a regional vernacular. Sit a while in one of its coffee shops and you’ll notice a refreshing absence of highly strung urbanites tapping away at their Power Books, but rather people who actually stop to say hello and mean it when they ask ‘How’s the family?’. Yes, Constantia is a dichotomy of a place that is at once as warm and prickly as a cashmere cardigan.
THE WINE ROUTE
Steenberg, Constantia Uitsig, Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia and Groot Constantia are the five estates that form the Constantia Wine Route. Detailed information about each, their wines, wine tasting facilities and restaurants can be found on www.constantiawineroute.co.za.
OF INTEREST
Constantia is home to three of the Western Cape’s most historic kramats (graves or shrines to Muslim prophets), worth visiting for those interested in a multicultural perspective of the Cape’s history. Contact Ameem Dhansay on 083 633 3263 to arrange an informative guided tour.
WHERE TO STAY
From guest houses and B&Bs to world-class luxury hotels, Constantia is not short of accommodation options. The triptych of high-end hotels in the area comprises: the Alphen Country House Hotel, 021 794 5011, a national monu-ment with the air of a grand inn; the Cellars-Hohenort and Spa, 021 794 2137, a Relais & Châteaux-rated establishment (the brainchild of luxury hotel entrepreneur Liz McGrath) that combines the immaculately restored 18th century Klaasenbosch wine cellars and historic Hohenort manor house; and the Steenberg Hotel, 021 713 2137, with its championship golf resort and suites located in a series of restored historic farm buildings, some dating back to the 17th century. The Constantia boutique hotel, 021 794 6561, offers a home-from-home experience in beautifully appointed surrounds, as does The Constantia Stables, 021 794 3653, a private residence where the guest rooms are, you guessed it, elegantly renovated former stables.
BRUNCH, LUNCH AND DINE
The concentration of restaurants in this neck of the woods comprises some of the most acclaimed in the Western Cape. As is to be expected from one of the Cape’s most lauded wine estates, the Buitenverwachting Restaurant, Klein Constantia Road, 021 794 3522, deals in fine dining with an international sensibility. The menu changes regularly according to seasonal availability.
If you don’t get around to doing dinner, the set lunch menu in the courtyard of the more laid-back Cafe Petit is an equally satisfying way to spend a few hours.
The Constantia Nek Restaurant, 1 Hout Bay Road, Constantia, 021 794 5132, is one of Cape Town’s most tried and trusted eateries (having first opened its doors in the 1920s) and is situated on the summit of the Constantia Nek pass, the road that connects the southern suburbs with Hout Bay. The thatched chalet-style building is all old-school charm, as is the menu with family-friendly standards cooked well and served up in generous portions.
The River Cafe, Constantia Uitsig Farm, Spaanschemat River Road, 021 794 3010, is a favourite across the generations – from yummy mummies and pashmina-wrapped twentysomethings ‘just back from London to visit the family’ to Burberry-clad golden oldies – all of whom go for breakfast and brunch in the leafy, genteel surrounds. As expected, food is farm-fresh and served up with the same attention to detail as sister restaurants Uitsig and La Colombe, both situated on the estate.
La Colombe and Uitsig, Constantia Uitsig, Spaanschemat River Road, 021 794 2390/4480, complete the trinity of restaurants on the Uitsig estate. Both La Colombe (with its Southern French-inspired menu) and Uitsig (under the culinary genius of chef Frank Swainston) regularly top the critics’ choice of South Africa’s finest dining destinations and are must-visits for those after truly superior gastronomic experiences.
Melissa’s: The Food Shop, Shop 1 & 2 Constantia Courtyard, Constantia Village, 021 794 4696, sees the steady traffic of cappuccino-sipping moms post-pilates or killing time with friends before the afternoon school run, au pairs bringing junior for a quick bite from the lunch buffet, pre-dressage lessons, and food lovers picking up freshly baked breads, home-style pies and other delicacies that stock the shelves and fridges.
The Cape Malay Restaurant at the Cellars-Hohenort, 93 Brommersvlei Road, 021 794 2137, specialises in the aromatic flavours unique to the Western Cape. For those who are unfamiliar, the food is a blend of Indian and Malay cuisine that has its roots in South Africa’s early colonial past. Expect classics like lamb-knuckle tomato bredie with hints of cardamom, meat and vegetable breyanis, smoor snoek (braised with onions, chilli and potato) and decadent malva pudding, a rich caramel-syrup infused sponge served hot with cream, custard or ice cream.
Peddlars On The Bend, 3 Spaanschemat River Road, 021 794 7747, is good for a pint or a hearty meal with the well-heeled locals.
Day or night, Pastis Brasserie, Shop 12, High Constantia Centre, Constantia Road, 021 794 8334, is a gem of a spot for easy eating, bistro style. The duck confit is outstanding as are all the desserts (we’re partial to the lemon tart and crème caramel).
SHOP TALK
Constantia has several destination boutiques and special gems well worth a look-in. Chic home-grown label Charlotte Rhys is fast becoming world-renowned for its deliciously fragranced candles, room sprays, body products, linen waters and small but perfectly formed homeware collection. Its flagship emporium Charlotte Rhys La Collection can be found at Shop 6, Constantia Courtyard, Constantia Village, 021 794 9444. Directly next door is Charlotte Rhys Chocolate, 021 794 1106, where handmade sweet temptations are sold in gift boxes or selected from the counter and beautifully wrapped for your eating pleasure.
Ferndale Nursery in Brommersvlei Road, 021 794 5144, has been run by the Tishard family for several decades and is a wonderful place to spend a Sunday morning buying or just smelling the roses.
Madison Shop 17, Constantia Courtyard, Constantia Village, 021 794 4447, has a well-edited selection of fashion by local designers (like Maya Prass and Strip) as well as hard-to-find imported labels including the ultra-wearable Aussie brand Metalicus. Camper shoes and boots and gorgeous handbags mean you can accessorise there too.
The shelves at Orselli’s Delicatessen, Shop 35, Constantia Village, 021 794 3694, are packed back-to-back with imported Italian specialities, cured meats as well as handcrafted pastas and sauces. The marinated pecorino wheel in olive oil and herbs will make a delicious edible centrepiece at your next dinner party.
HAPPY TRAILS TO YOU
Cecilia Forest, where Hohenort Drive meets Rhodes Drive, is replete with leaf-dappled gravel paths, streams and small waterfalls. The reserve is on the base of Constantia Nek and is popular with joggers, dog walkers and families. The famous Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Rhodes Drive, 021 799 8800, backs on to the Constantia Valley.
In Constantia’s green belt there are nine different interlinking walking trails (some accessible to horses) that are popular with residents as well as those from surrounding suburbs who come to enjoy the scenery. Maps of these can be viewed at www.zandvleitrust.org.za under ‘Constantia Walking Trails’. Most take under an hour from start to finish at a brisk pace. If the activity of birding fluffs up your tail feathers, contact Birdwatch Cape, 021 762 5059, for a tour of the Constantia area, as part of a more comprehensive agenda.
GETTING THERE
From Cape Town’s city centre follow either the Eastern Boulevard or De Waal Drive out of town, joining up with the M3 to Muizenberg. After about 20 minutes veer left and take the M41 Constantia turn-off – this leads to Constantia Main Road as well as the Spaanschemat River Road (follow this for the Constantia Wine Route). The entire area is very well signposted, with directions to many of the hotels.