HEART BAY
Words Lin Murray
TUCKED AWAY AT THE END OF THE CAPE PENINSULA, HOUT BAY RESPONDS TO THE ELEMENTAL CALL OF MOUNTAIN, FOREST AND SEA. IT IS A WORLD APART FROM THE CITY – WHICH IS JUST THE WAY ITS COMMUNITY LIKES IT
There are two roads that lead into Hout Bay from Cape Town. One winds its way through the verdant suburbs of Newlands and Constantia, slowly ascending to a point where it grants a brief glimpse of azure ocean before plunging down the mountainside into a sylvan world of cool shade and dappled light. The other road twists and turns along the breathtaking stretch of the Atlantic Seaboard, leaving behind the populated beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay and unfurling like a ribbon in the communion between rock and sea. This route also rises, climbing at a snail’s pace until, just when you think the mountain has won the challenge, it slips past the lookout point over the last beach of Llandudno, and skids down a valley of fynbos on its way into town.
Until recently, there used to be a third way into Hout Bay, via the vertiginous cliff-embracing route of Chapman’s Peak Drive. But the forces of nature have proved too strong for this world-famous thoroughfare and, despite repeated efforts and multi-million-rand schemes to prevent rockfalls and landslides, the road remains closed until further notice. Its scar cuts into the promontory as a reminder of its glory days – and humankind’s fallibility.
All three roads are appropriate for describing Hout Bay, a settlement that owes its existence to forest, sea and history. Surrounded by a half-moon of mountains, it is like a precious stone snug in a ring setting. Its most iconic peak, aptly known as The Sentinel, looks out to sea and stands guard over the bay, as gentle aqua waves loll on to a white beach that dazzles in the sun. A blanket of green stretches its way inland, rising into the valley, now hugged by expensive real estate on either side.
Resident Lee Kingma has lived in Hout Bay for 20 years and still loves coming home at the end
of each day. ‘Driving into Hout Bay is like being received into the safe arms of Mother Nature, with the mountains cupping the valley, and the sea in front kissing the horizon,’ she says.
It’s not hard to imagine that storm-weary sailors felt the same way centuries ago as they sought refuge in the bay’s protected waters.
Hout Bay’s earliest inhabitants were Khoisan hunter-gatherers, who lived in caves alongside the inlet and survived off the bounty of the sea. One of the first European explorers to discover the area was John Chapman, who landed ashore in 1607 during a reconnaissance of the peninsula’s coastline. It was duly dubbed ‘Chapman’s Chance’ until Jan van Riebeek landed at the Cape 45 years later to set up a refreshment station for the Dutch East India Company. Upon visiting the bay, he renamed it ‘T’Houtbaaitjen’ (Dutch for ‘Bay of Wood’), noting in his journal that its mountainous slopes held ‘the finest forest in the world’. The company was in dire need of wood for building and fuel, so woodcutters soon set to work in the valley, sending the timber around the mountain to
Table Bay, by ship.
In 1677, the first agreement to rent land was signed and a small farming community began to flourish. Attention also turned to the sea, which was teeming with life, and by the early 1800s
a fishing industry was thriving. Snoek was caught, salted and exported to Mauritius in exchange
for sugar. In 1904, a crayfish canning factory was established, giving Hout Bay’s economy
a much-needed boost.
These days, Hout Bay’s fishing industry remains a vital source of employment and a trip to the vibrant harbour reveals the town’s ancient, salty heartbeat. Colourful boats come and go, bobbing up and down in tune with the waves. Fishermen call out to each other as they sort through the catch of the day or mend the nets. Seagulls squawk and circle overhead as holidaymakers and locals stroll along the jetty, buying fish or watching as ships are worked on in the dockyard. On a hot summer’s day, it’s almost soporific.
And yet the town is starting to shed its sleepy- hollow image. Over the past decade, mass development has taken place in the residential sector. Lured by its village vibe, Capetonians – especially young families – have moved to the area, the commute into the city a small price to
pay for living in beautiful surroundings.
Property specialist Matt Mercer says Hout Bay has now grown into a dormitory suburb of Cape Town. ‘There is a high demand for property. In fact, it has had one of the best growth rates in any large suburb of Cape Town, consistently higher even than the national average. Homes range from one-bedroom apartments to some of the most luxurious properties in South Africa.’
On the main road into town from Constantia, rich and poor jostle for space. Beautiful estates
line the mountainside, stopping just before the informal settlement of Imizamo Yetho. On the other side of the harbour, the impoverished fishing community lies at the foot of The Sentinel where the incongruous outline of a lavish, Austrian castle sprouts out of the foliage nearby.
Lee has watched the town change over the years. ‘It’s grown a lot. It’s become more reflective of Africa and I love its cosmopolitan feel,’ she says. ‘We have our problems with vast disparities in economic wealth and the influx of people who may not be sustained, but I see the beauty in the faces of all the cultures who enjoy Hout Bay and I’m happy to be part of its evolution.’
A strong sense of community prevails in the town. Everybody seems to know everybody
else, and a stroll down the main road with a local means having to stop every five minutes to say hello to someone.
Twenty years ago, a local organisation promoted the town as the ‘Republic of Hout Bay’ – separate from South Africa – even handing out passports to residents as a charity initiative. This concept is now being revived, thanks to the efforts of the affable Andre Jacobs, who has appointed himself Consulate-General of ‘the republic’. He regularly holds ‘roadblocks’ in the town to check and stamp passports. It’s a light-hearted bid to engender a new sense of pride in its people in the face of change, and it appears to be working. ‘We are surrounded by mountains, so we have to face
each other,’ says Andre.
And in many ways, Hout Bay is another country – a world away from Cape Town, sealed off by nature and the ever-present call of the ocean. Follow the road into it, either by sea or forest and, like its inhabitants, you might never want
to leave.
EXPLORE
Hout Bay is the ideal place for ‘getting away’ – even for a day trip – as there are lots of opportunities to wander and wonder.
WHERE PAST MEETS PRESENT
History buffs should not miss the Hout Bay Museum (021 790 3270) just off Main Road.
It provides a fascinating record of how the town has developed over the centuries, from prehistoric times to the bustling fishing village it is today. Few architectural gems remain in town, but the Cape Dutch homestead of Kronendal on Main Road is worth a look. Built in 1800 on Hout Bay’s original farmlands, it’s the only surviving example of an
H-plan house on the whole of the Cape Peninsula.
Drive along the main road through town to the beginning of Chapman’s Peak Drive, where below the road lie the ruins of the 18th century East Fort and a battery of restored cannons. East and West Fort (erected on the western side of the bay) were instrumental in protecting the bay during the battle for control of the Cape Sea Route in the 1700s, and changed colonial command several times. Above East Fort is a good place to stop and contemplate the bay and the surrounding mountains. Or, carry on a little further along Chapman’s Peak Drive until you reach the ‘closed’ signs. The views from there are truly magnificent.
On the drive – or walk – back, note the
famous bronze Hout Bay leopard sitting on
its rocky pedestal out at sea at the foot of Chapman’s Peak. Tinged verdigris with age and salt, it has perched there since 1963 when sculptor Ivan Mitford-Barberton gave it to the town.
Andre Jacobs 021 791 8314 / 083 632 8976 offers breakfast or lunch tours from East Fort
to West Fort. Meet at The Consulate, Pam Arlene Place, Main Road.
AQUATIC ACTIVITY
A visit to Hout Bay’s harbour is unmissable. Walk around and watch the comings and goings of the townspeople. This is also the departure point for chartered yachts and boat trips to Duiker Island (also known as Seal Island), home to more than
5 000 South African fur seals. Various companies offer daily trips; try Circe Launches (021 790 1040)
or Nauticat Charters (021 790 7278) – both have boats with glass bottoms.
Adrenalin junkies can opt for a faster option with Bugaloo Adventures (021 791 1022), which offers high-speed boat trips as well as jet-ski hire.
On gentle, wind-free days, skimming along the silver surface of the bay in a kayak is a delight. Phone Johan Loots (021 790 5611).
Nature calls
Unsurprisingly, Hout Bay’s mountains contain
a varied range of hiking and walking trails. They’re an excellent way to appreciate the area’s abundant plant life – from fynbos to protected milkwoods – especially when combined with lookout points
that guarantee breathtaking views. The Hout Bay Museum conducts walks every weekend, weather permitting. Call Jonty Dreyer on 021 790 3270.
Or get a copy of Mike Lundy’s Twenty Walks Around Hout Bay and Best Walks in the Cape Peninsula. Be aware of safety though and always hike in groups and with only one cellphone between you.
Nature lovers should also head to World of Birds (021 790 2730), one of the biggest bird parks in the world. Home to more than 3 000 birds, it’s
an extraordinary place, replete with tropical,
jungle-like foliage and walk-through aviaries.
SHOPPING
There are a few interesting shopping opportunities along the main road, but a visit to the Sunday
craft market on the common lies at the top of the
Hout Bay retail experience. Held every weekend between 9 am and 4 pm, the market buzzes with stalls selling anything from wind-chimes to jewellery and home-made delicacies, while locals stand around chatting and drinking coffee.
Kirikara (021 790 8358) on Main Road sells non-touristy handcrafted African art and is a good place to stock up on contemporary ceramics, carvings and hand-woven rugs. Nearby Ethno Bongo (021 790 0802) is great for African-style jewellery and a wide array of wooden decor items. For exquisite and unique trinkets made out of semi-precious stones, crystals, quartz and silver, visit Rockchic (021 791 4162 ).
Potter’s Yard (021 790 0559) is a peaceful little nursery where you can pick up proteas, lavender bushes, herbs and rustic pottery. Wander through to the back for the massive wood carvings out of tree trunks.
Nap (021 790 1478) in the Mainstream Centre is a chic decor shop, serene in its contemporary palette of white, silver and grey. Browse through beautiful tableware, lamps, candles, mohair blankets and bathroom accessories, and sit
down with a caffè latte in the coffee shop afterwards. They also sell delicious paninis
and indulgent cakes – perfect for placating
post-retail appetites!
Shop with heart at the Hout Bay Community Cultural Centre (021 790 2273), where you can purchase home-made cards and craft products of Iziko lo Lwazi, a poverty alleviation project. T-Bag Designs at Unit 4 in the Kronendal Office Park on Main Road is a similar empowerment initiative where women from Imizamo Yetho make stationery, candle holders and coasters from recycled tea bags.
EATING AND DRINKING
Hout Bay has several eating institutions, and unsurprisingly, almost all of them involve the
fruits of the sea. Mariner’s Wharf (021 790 1100) is an emporium for all things fishy: try the Wharfside Grill for a premium seafood experience in themed ship ‘cabins’ or the Seafood Bistro for alfresco dining. The Fishmarket stocks a range of seafood and deli products, including Hout Bay’s famous delicacy – traditional oak-smoked snoek straight from the kilns.
Tucked away at the end of the harbour road is one of the town’s best-kept secrets, Fish on the Rocks (021 790 1153). It’s the number one spot for locals to have snoek and chips while watching the boats come and go. Chapman’s Peak Hotel
(021 790 1036), fondly known as ‘Chappies’, is situated at the base of Chapman’s Peak, and is the only place to go for calamari. In summer, locals and holidaymakers pack the long, sun-drenched terrace overlooking the beach.
If the seafood and fish gets a bit much, Comida (021 791 1166) serves excellent thin-crust pizza and has a young, vibey clientele, while Kitima (021 790 8004) in the Kronendal estate on the main road,
is a world-class Thai restaurant. Try their Sunday buffet!
Also a Sunday-must is tea and scones at Suikerbossie (021 790 1450), a very popular restaurant and wedding venue in the fynbos on the hill overlooking the town.
Walk straight off the beach and hang out with the local surfer crowd at Dunes (021 790 1876) for sundowners, or have a beer at the world’s smallest pub –noted in the Guinness Book of Records – The Workshop (021 790 1747).
The Lookout Deck (021 790 0900) in the harbour waterfront – another favourite cocktail spot to watch the sun go down over the harbour while listening to live music – recently suffered extensive fire damage. After undergoing renovations they are up and running again.
SLEEPING
Built in 1871 and situated in the heart of the town, the historic Hout Bay Manor (021 790 0116) has recently undergone a style makeover to become an exclusive luxury boutique hotel. Featuring 21 en-suite bedrooms, the decor is African, while reflecting the hotel’s colonial heritage. The hotel grounds have been extensively landscaped, while two new eateries, the Restaurant and the Pavilion, serve gourmet fare.
Chapman’s Peak Hotel (021 790 1036), Hout Bay’s second oldest, but perhaps most famous hotel, is also undergoing renovations. The original building, that dates back to 1890, is being expanded to include 21 new luxury rooms and two penthouse suites, all a stone’s throw from the beach. It’s set to open in March 2008.
The lavish guest villa of The Hout Bay Hideaway (021 790 8040) offers luxury mod cons with the added attraction of natural surrounds. Situated among yellowwoods, palms, wild olives, lemon trees and proteas, each suite has views of the sea and mountain. Its wild garden is a sanctuary and you can have a Victorian bath under the ferns.