Harbourside haven
Words Vicki Sleet
Once the hang-out of ocean-loving hippies and the time-honoured home of generations of fishermen and their families, Kalk Bay has evolved into the weekend destination DU JOUR for city-bound dwellers
With less than 1 000 homes, Kalk Bay is indeed a village. Sandwiched between the sea and mountain, this quaint seaside escape has captured the imagination of Capetonians who flock here to browse the select stores or wander along the harbour wall. Though many long-time residents abhor the changing of their much-loved, laid-back harbourside home – property price hikes have hit Kalk Bay with a vengeance – the charm of this tiny hillside haven, where everything is accessible on foot, remains.
Thanks to Kalk Bay’s popularity, the cafe and restaurant culture is thriving, vintage stores – from those specialising in kitchenalia to Africana books and artefacts – lure treasure seekers, while tucked-away galleries play host to sought-after ceramics by local stars. Part of what entices so many visitors is the air of informality. An afternoon meandering up and down Main Road, Cape Town’s equivalent of Portobello Road, is a pleasure, what with the colourful snatches of conversation among local shopkeepers, jovial greetings from one fisherman to another and the strumming of resident station subway busker, John.
Judy Curtis, whose sister owns Quagga Trading, Kalk Bay’s home of antiquarian books and rare Africana, has been in her spot for 15 years. She remembers the days when ‘there was still a chemist and a butcher shop’. ‘Things were very different then,’ says Judy, ‘but the one constant is the thirst of people from all over the world for our colourful corner of the peninsula.’
Of course, progress in any community is inevitable and the development on most residents’ minds is the soon-to-be-completed Majestic Village on the Main Road – the restoration and revamping of the original Majestic and New Kings Hotels built in 1916 and 1930 respectively. Here a host of swanky seaside pads, from apartments to town houses and upmarket lofts will form a village within a village, all within spitting distance of the harbour.
The R175 million development has been remarkably sensitive to the original vernacular, successfully restoring many of the original features of the historic buildings. Much to the relief of locals, the Majestic Village is in keeping with the spirit of Kalk Bay proper. Built by the Union Castle Lines (the original owners of the Mount Nelson Hotel), the Majestic was to be a seaside sibling for the city-based Nellie, perfect for guests seeking a respite from the city heat. Luminaries like Mahatma Gandhi are said to have slept here, though he allegedly insisted on sleeping on the floor. Plans for the village include a spa and recreation facility, housed in the Majestic’s original ballroom, a bookshop as well as a coffee bar and deli. The aim, says developer Paul Boemke, is to create a ‘true village where neighbours greet each other en route to buying the daily newspaper’.
An influx of residents will no doubt bring a new flavour to the community, but it’s a given that they will be seduced by Kalk Bay’s lack of pretence and undeniable charm. This is a community where your neighbours really do know your name, where your cappuccino arrives before you’ve ordered it and where conversation flips easily between metaphysics and surf conditions.
Long the haunt of poets, artists and writers, Kalk Bay has somehow managed to escape the oft- found posturing of creative territory. Well-published writers sit quietly at their favourite haunts, sipping quality coffee with a view, while being politely ignored by locals. Poet and author Finuala Dowling, who was born, grew up and still lives here, and who recently published the novel What Poets Need (Penguin), says it is exactly this parochial flavour that inspires her. ‘The local coastline has franked me, left a watermark in my heart and moulded its own relief into the soft grey matter of my cerebellum.’
Kalk Bay harbour, like its Hout Bay counterpart, is the main source of income for many of the local families and it is still possible to chat to the skipper of a just-docked trawler about his still-glistening catch of the day. The fishing community dates back to the late seventeenth century and modern-day attempts during the apartheid era to relocate it failed. The cries of ‘visis in’ (here come the fish!) – when the characterful boats make their way back into the harbour after a day out at sea – are just another feature of a unique, fascinating neighbourhood only 30 minutes from the city centre.
HOW TO GET THERE
From the city surrounds, take the M3 to the Lakeside turn-off and follow the Main Road until you reach the Boyes Drive turn-off, or keep going until you hit the spot. Both offer fantastic views – from Boyes Drive, a nine kilometre winding road that passes above Lakeside, Muizenberg and St James before reaching Kalk Bay, the sight of whales in the winter months may force you to slow down, while the grand old homes are enough to make you wish you’d started your retirement fund years ago. From the Main Road, the drive through Muizenberg and St James offers insight into why this stretch of coast was once known as the Riviera of the South, where wealthy upcountry folk made their way to beautifully appointed seaside mansions for their annual summer holidays. Some, closer to Muizenberg, are in varying stages of decay, their crumbling facades belying their stately history, but many are undergoing reno-vation – an indication of the rebirth underway in the area. Though Kalk Bay is certainly home to some bricks-and-mortar grande dames, it is the cosy cottages sandwiched side by side on cobbled hillside roads that capture people’s hearts.
Taking the train is not always a safe option, but if you’re feeling adventurous, the first-class carriage is the only way to go. Avoid travelling in the late afternoon. Kalk Bay Station is situated in the middle of the action and comes complete with the famous waterside drinking hole and restaurant, the Brass Bell.
MOUNTAIN WALKS
Though the harbour is the heart of Kalk Bay, the mountain plays an important role too. There are a number of walks along the length of Boyes Drive – some are officially signposted, some not. Both amateur and serious spelaeologists (cavers, for the uninitiated!) are enamoured with the Echo Valley walk that starts on the Kalk Bay side of Boyes Drive and winds its way up into a number of caves, including Boomslang Cave, a 100m-long sandstone cave that takes you through the mountain. If you don’t have time to enjoy a long mountain walk, be sure to stop and splash about in the mini waterfalls on the mountainside or walk a section of Boyes Drive ending in Kalk Bay. Wherever you choose to start, Boyes Drive is easily accessed via a number of steep stairways that line the hillside in St James – simply park your car, catch your breath once you’ve traversed Jacobs Ladder or Westray steps and wander down to Kalk Bay.
NOSH SPOTS
The award-winning Olympia Cafe & Deli (021 788 6396) holds the crown as one of the city’s most popular dining destinations and is certainly a favourite haunt with locals. Crammed with people from early till late (be warned, though, the kitchen closes at 9 pm), Olympia serves up delicious, down-to-earth Mediterranean fare, and great breads and pastries (the ciabatta is legendary as are the cinnamon twists). Owner-chef Kenneth McClarty’s penchant for quality fish is revealed in his superb tuna tartare and creamy mussels. A relative newcomer to the foodie scene is Cafe des Artes (021 788 5270). The teeny chalkboard menu featuring unfussy fare made with the freshest seasonal produce is perfectly suited for the intimate and charming space, situated right opposite Dalebrook Tidal Pool on the Kalk Bay/St James border. Proximity to the harbour means that fish is high on many a local restaurateur’s list and Live Bait (021 788 5755) is the latest harbourside haunt to open its doors. A fresh Med-inspired interior is the perfect match for the mostly fish-orientated menu – the uninterrupted sea views and the bird’s-eye views of the harbour happenings are pretty enticing too. Above, and adjacent to Live Bait are its sister restaurants: Harbour House (021 788 4133) is a sophisticated space reminiscent of the Hamptons with globally influenced food, while Polana (021 788 7162) serves spicy Portuguese grub in a soulful setting. Again, the views at both are as seductive as the food. Don’t miss out on the cocktails at Cape to Cuba (021 788 1566) which serves Caribbean-Cuban cuisine and almost all the decor is for sale. For those wanting a taste of traditional Cape fare, look no further than Theresa’s (021 788 8051). Kalk Bay’s food scene is not just about sit-down dining though – order a pizza from Café Matisse (021 788 1123) or the best fish and chips ever from Kalky’s (021 788 1726).
If after a long day however, a drink is what you have in mind then the quintessential Kalk Bay spots have to be The Brass Bell (021 788 5455) – loved by students and surfers alike – and the Polana, which buzzes from early afternoon till late, especially on weekends. Its Sunday night sessions with Angolan singer Adamo are legendary.
SHOPPING
Kalk Bay has a reputation as one of the best bric-a-brac and vintage browsing spots in the city. There are many interesting stores both on the Main Road and up hidden alleyways. At Railway House (021 788 4761), you’re as likely to find vintage Irish linens as weather-beaten tables, Belfast kitchen sinks and a good selection of characterful antique pieces. Further down the main drag is Quagga Trading (021 788 2752), a gem for art and book lovers. Klutzes need not set foot in The Whatnot and Chinatown (021 788 1823), where every free inch of space is lined with tableware and china – perfect for building a mismatched set of your own, for replacing missing pieces or for investing in cult collectables like Sylvac porcelain dogs. More contemporary furniture items can be found at Cape to Cairo (021 788 4571), which is impossible to miss with its bright red pavement and eye-catching window displays. Kalk Bay is known for being home to a plethora of talented artists and craftspeople, especially evident at places like Clementina Ceramics (021 788 8718). Owner-curator Albie Bailey features ever-changing displays of contemporary South African art as well as the latest works by his partner, well-known ceramicist Clementina van der Walt. Just off the Main Road lies The Potter’s Shop & Studio (021 788 7030), situated in a quaint topsy-turvy building in a charming cobbled street. Owner Chris Silverston regularly curates some of the best ceramics shows in town – it’s also where you can purchase local star Andile’s trademark vessels.
DO AND SEE
With eating and browsing high on many a visitor’s priority list, it’s easy to forget about many of the other interesting sights and amenities that are part and parcel of Kalk Bay. Dalebrook Tidal Pool is a wonderful example of a well-maintained Cape Town coastal tidal pool, one of many on this stretch of coastline. Adjacent to this, surfers brave one of the best breaks in False Bay. At the Kalk Bay Theatre (021 788 7257), based in a converted 1876 Dutch Reformed church, theatregoers are treated to a range of innovative plays and shows by some of South Africa’s finest. Local film buffs make the most of the Sunday movie nights at the Kalk Bay Community Centre (also home to yoga classes), where R10 gets you an art movie and snacks.