TOWN & COUNTRY
Words Mandy Allen
NEWLANDS IS WITHOUT DISPUTE THE MOST URBAN OF ITS SUBURBAN COUNTERPARTS. ITS APPEAL RELIES ON A WELL-ADJUSTED SPLIT PERSONALITY THAT IS PART RURAL IDYLL, PART SOPHISTICATED EXTENSION OF THE MOTHER CITY. All of which combine to make it some of Cape Town’s most desirable – and expensive – real estate
One doesn’t really walk in Newlands. One ambles. Or strolls. Or saunters. There is something wonderfully pastoral about this leafy suburb, located on the verdant eastern side of Table Mountain and anchored by the Liesbeek River, which encourages a more genteel outlook on life. Observe the quaint ivy-clad facades of the cottages – some centuries old – lining streets with names like Wisteria Close, Apple or Lemon Lane, and you forget momentarily that you’re a 15-minute drive from the bustle of Cape Town’s inner city.
Rest your hands on the delightfully cool, thickly packed stone walls of St Andrews Church, circa 1857, on Kildare Road – cited, as ‘the Rolls Royce of desirable roads in this pocket’ by Seeff area specialist Barbara van der Westhuyzen – and you are momentarily transported away from the speeding cars on Newlands Avenue to England’s Hertfordshire.
But stay a while and it quickly becomes apparent that Newlands Village, as the area is commonly referred to, is not populated by the cast of a Merchant Ivory production, nor is its architecture limited to period cottages and national monuments. Instead, you’re just as likely to spot a yummy mummy sipping an espresso at a pavement cafe or burning plastic in a hip boutique as you are to see one of the older, long-time residents pulling their wheeled Burberry-print shopping stroller down to the local grocery store.
You’re also bound to notice imported German station wagons gleaming in the driveways of expensive-looking contemporary constructions, or single-and-loving-it yuppies driving into their secure town house complexes. On a Saturday, fathers and sons making their way to the landmark Newlands Stadium for a sports match is a common sight, as is that of first-year University of Cape Town (UCT) students hoping to score a free beer on a tour of the South African Breweries (SAB) building in Newlands.
‘The land value in Newlands is the highest per square metre in the southern suburbs with good reason,’ says Barbara. ‘Everyone wants to be here because apart from all its natural attractions, it’s right on the major arterials so everything is conveniently close by. It appeals to families because of the excellent schools in the area (namely SACS, Westerford and Sans Souci); for academics and medical professionals it’s right near UCT and Groote Schuur Hospital and those who are sports-mad like the fact that it’s the centre for rugby and cricket. It’s also very close to Cavendish Square shopping centre. Dual-income yuppies with no kids who can’t afford the City Bowl see it as the next best option.’
This sentiment is echoed by interior designer Guy Ferrett whose distinctive and classically inclined style has ensured that his number is in the little black book of many local residents. ‘There’s a real sense of community in Newlands,’ says Guy. ‘No-one’s a stranger.’
Many fascinating footnotes form part of the area’s past: Newlands stands as one of Cape Town’s more historically rich areas and is said to have been founded as a fruit- and vegetable-growing hamlet to service sailors with the Dutch East India Company as far back as the early 1700s. The main arterial from Cape Town into the southern suburbs, now known as the Eastern Boulevard, was the first road in the Cape to be opened by the settlers and functioned as a wagon trail used by woodcutters to gain access to the slopes of the mountain.
One of its most beloved residents was Lady Anne Barnard who, in 1799, took up residence in a beautiful purpose-built single-storey residence, Paradijs, the site of the luxury Vineyard Hotel and Spa.
A ubiquitous scene down the narrow residential lanes is the cottages with their distinctive, thick, clay brick walls and doors that open right on to the street. Now in high demand on the property market, some of these were originally built as slave or brewers quarters to service the farms, estates and brewery (the South African Brewery in Boundary Road is South Africa’s oldest commercial brewery, dating back to the mid-1800s).
Other historic sites of interest include: the Josephine Mill in Boundary Road built by a Swedish settler in the mid-1800s; and Groote Schuur at the bottom of Newlands Avenue (or the beginning, depending on your point of view), once the residence of Prime Minister Cecil John Rhodes and now the official Cape Town residence of the President. Newlands is also inextricably linked to a more contemporary landmark, its stadium. Ground was first broken here in 1888 and over the years Newlands Stadium has been transformed into the modern monolith that is now so familiar to sports lovers across the planet. Another modern architectural addition to the landscape is the Sports Science Institute, a world-class facility that is the mother ship for South Africa’s top athletes.
When it comes to style, Newlands has something of a unique identity. Perhaps because of its status as an upmarket suburb populated by the very wealthy and upper middle classes, it’s a cocktail of good-looking people, dignified residential and commercial architecture, and shops and restaurants that (by and large) share a blueprint of refinement and sophistication – a sensibility reflected in many private homes.
‘While there are a few of my clients who prefer modern, clean interiors, it’s not very Newlands,’ says Guy Ferrett. ‘Even the younger people who move here are keeping their interiors quite classic. People love florals and the English country look. I think it’s because of the mountain, it’s shady and wet, and almost everyone has a garden. A lot of the houses are designed in a more traditional style. Homeowners respect that. Why would you want to impose modern styles if they don’t suit the space?’
Sure, it’s a privileged existence far removed from the daily struggles of most South Africans. But a stroll down Kildare Road or Dean Street offers a snapshot of a picture-perfect lifestyle and expresses a quality of life that makes Newlands a suburban utopia. And who wouldn’t want a slice of that?
A GREEN AND PLEASANT (NEW) LAND
Those keen on the great outdoors can take advantage of any one of several lung-expanding outings in the Newlands area. Thanks to its gentle inclines, a hike in Newlands Forest is relatively easy on the body and takes in gorgeous views of Table Mountain, bubbling brooks and features more than enough rest areas to put your feet up. The paths are well-signposted, starting and finishing at the Newlands Forest Station. A good walk at full pace should take an hour or two of your time.
A stroll along the Liesbeek River is a favourite with the locals and small play parks dot the area for dogs and children to run free, but the premier attraction in the area is the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. An abundance of flora and fauna and a magnificent setting are the main reasons most people flock to this 528-ha estate, and there are delightful trails of varying degrees of difficulty to attempt. But we’re rather partial to smelling the (indigenous) roses then heading to the tea room for scones and a cuppa. Rhodes Drive, 021 799 8783/8773.
ARTS AND CRAFTS MOVEMENT
If you’re hung up on all things handmade with a local flavour, then think of the Montebello Design Centre, 31 Newlands Avenue, 021 685 6445, as nirvana. It’s a series of historical buildings, craft and design studios (open to the public) that cover various disciplines including jewellery, metal, textile, ceramic and original art, all made on site. Highlights include Adri Schutz’ Mielie creations made from recycled textiles (her colourful hand-woven weekend bags are in high demand in the world’s swankiest capitals and the felt flower brooches make pretty presents); Louise Gelderblom’s sculptural ceramics; and Nicolas Lehmann’s hand-forged metal Furniture (which may prove a tad tricky getting past customs as hand luggage). The Montebello project promotes the mediums of craft and design as a means for legitimate job creation, so the money you spend here extends into the pockets of the crafters who typically come from townships and rural areas. Contemplate the beauty of your buys at either The Gardener’s Cottage (lovely for breakfasts) or the Ivy Green Farm Shop (we can’t recommend the free-range chicken pie highly enough).
IN RESIDENCE
When it comes to where to rest your head, Newlands offers venues large and intimate. One guest house that is repeatedly recommended is The Red House, 021 683 8000, a Georgian country house and national monument where the atmosphere is stately and the service and facilities completely twenty-first century. With 173 rooms, The Vineyard Hotel and Spa, Colinton Road, 021 657 4500, is on the opposite end of the size spectrum but offers unparalleled service and world-class facilities in a lush, romantic setting. The hotel is built on the site of Paradijs, Lady Anne Barnard’s country home (her husband, Andrew, was colonial secretary to the governor of the Cape) and has exquisite gardens, excellent restaurants and an Angsana Spa (affiliated to the famous Banyan Tree spa and hotel group).
EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY
The foodie options in Newlands cover almost all tastes and are generally very good, with easy, casual eating being the style du jour. Traditional pub grub and a stomach-stretching Sunday carvery are served up with gusto at the Forresters Arms Restaurant and Pub (Forries), 51 Newlands Avenue, 021 689 5949. Expect a fun mix of people – locals, families, professionals and hoards of exuberant UCT students – and a convivial atmosphere.
Barristers, like Forries, is a Newlands institution. They may have added the posh description ‘Grill Room and Café on Main’ to the end of their name, but Barristers remains one of the best steakhouses if it’s a perfectly simple, simply delicious grilled slab of meat and French fries that you’re lusting after. Cardiff Castle, corner Kildare Road and Main Street, 021 671 7907.
The blue sign of Melissa’s – The Food Store is a familiar and comforting sight to Capetonians and recurring visitors, promising sweet and savoury delights, perfectly presented lattes and shelves packed with desirable local and imported edibles. Naturally the Newlands branch (there are four other outlets) doesn’t disappoint and the buffet lunch is always a satisfying prospect. Shop 3, Cardiff Castle, Kildare Road, 021 683 6948.
Locals overlook the occasionally sloppy service at Wijnhuis, Kildare Centre, Main Road, 021 671 9705 and instead focus on its pleasing Italian-Mediterranean menu and highly specialised, impressive wine list. A bonus is that many of the wines are available by the glass.
Get expert opinions on local wines at Wine Concepts, Cardiff Castle, corner Kildare Road and Main Street, 021 671 9030.
Meat, Shop 1, Cardiff Castle, Main Street, 021 674 7761, is a fabulous little deli with a cool, white interior that satisfies serious carnivorous cravings. Lip-smacking Italian pasta dishes can be taken away in small or catering-size containers, authentic Parma ham and salamis seduce with their sweetness, and fat legs of organic Karoo lamb are just begging to be thrown on the barbie.
Those with an appetite for Italian should also head to Mamma Roma, 5 Dean Street Arcade, Dean Street, 021 689 1975. Booking is essential as this is a popular spot with Cape-tonians from all over the peninsula.
The Treat Company, Shop 1, Dean Place, Main Street, 021 685 1990, is the downfall of anyone with a sweet tooth. Home-baked goodies are a speciality, as is the moreish seed loaf. Don’t leave without trying the chocolate-covered Turkish delight.
The most exciting new epicurean destination is located in one of the area’s oldest attractions. Caveau Wine Bar and Deli At The Mill transplants the successful formula of its original Heritage Square venue, in the heart of Cape Town, to the Josephine Mill, 13 Boundary Road, 021 685 5140. The old water mill, a national monument dating back to 1840, has received a modern glass and steel addition by dhk architects and features the same impressive wine list as well as chef Charl Coetzee’s excellent breakfast, lunch and dinner menu.
THE SHOPPING TRAIL
There are plenty of ways to part with your cash down in this neck of the woods, all of them deeply satisfying. Most of the best shops are concentrated in the Kildare Centre on Kildare and Main Road and cover fashion and interiors.
No-one has a better eye for rustic farmhouse chic than Laura Allpass, owner of L’Orangerie, Shop 1, Kildare Centre, 021 674 4284. Her beautiful wares for kitchen, bath, bed and home display none of the twee or kitsch characteristics one might assume of this nostalgic style of decor. Many of her more special items have been sourced from France, Scandinavia and other European locales and her selection of wares across all price ranges takes the stress out of gift buying for your more discerning friends. But it’s yourself that you’ll want to treat after spending a little time here. Our must-haves? Exquisite linen napkins in ticking stripes and wooden clothes pegs.
French Accent, Shop 5, Kildare Centre, 021 674 2275, is an emporium for the senses and the only place in Cape Town where you’ll find exclusive votive candles, scented oils, soaps and body products by L’Occitane, Esteban, Côte Bastide and more. Its gleaming, highly polished black floor and walls stand in direct contrast to Pa Kua just across the road, 55 Main Street, 021 671 1553.
An all-white cube belonging to Christiaan Barnard (the progeny of the late great heart surgeon), it serves as the headquarters for his interior design business, and also stocks select furniture, designer rugs, Joop glassware and imported D.L. & Co candles in flavours such as Pink Pepper, Amber Attar and Lady Rhubarb.
St Leger & Viney, 28 Kildare Road, 021 683 5233, is a favourite of interior designers and decor enthusiasts due to its ability to present traditional fabric ranges alongside a wide selection of designer imports and seasonal in-house collections.
Anthology, Shop 5b, Kildare Centre, 021 674 0079, is a colourful emporium that features everything from fab furniture to delicate jewellery and exotic homeware – whatever takes owners Kim Speer and Morné Foale’s fancy, really.
A mezzanine level gallery is run by Lisa Roberts who will be curating ever-changing exhibitions of affordable contemporary South African artworks.
Also in the Kildare Centre are three fashion stops worth mentioning: Rosenwerth, 021 674 2910, is
a name that is spoken in tones of reverence in Cape Town’s couture-loving circles. Mother and daughter team Elzbieta and Gabi are considered fashion royalty in South Africa, and this boutique is where you’ll find their signature strong, feminine designs.
Karen Ter Morshuizen and her husband Paul Harris are the talents behind the Lunar label, Shop 1, Kildare Centre, 021 674 6871. Their style is for edgy urbanistas who gravitate towards intelligent layering, understated colours and minimal, but distinctive, detailing. Many of their garments are made with the environment in mind, using natural fibres and non-polluting pigment dyes.
Lulu Tantan, Shop 7, Kildare Centre, 021 683 8148, is a geishalicious emporium of eastern-inspired outfits, exquisite embroidered kimonos and elegant kaftans. Don’t be fooled though. This is not a destination you head to for a fancy dress frock. Imported labels like Cosabella, True Religion and Sai So as well as the shop’s own label come at a price and garments are grown-up enough to work as well in the boardroom as they would at a barmitzvah.
The Rose Café, Shop 5, Cardiff Castle, Kildare Road, 021 671 3871, does a fine trade in beautiful blooms and owner Hayley Osmond will do her best to track down just about any kind of rose your heart desires.
Tucked away at 14 Main Street, 021 687 9266, is Belinda Wilkinson’s China Works, a sweet little treasure trove of hand-painted china and porcelain wall tiles that can be designed to your specifications.
If it’s the classic ‘Newlands Look’ you want to discover, it’s to be found at Interiors at Dean, Shop 14, Dean Street Arcade, 021 689 7968. Interior designer Guy Ferrett has set up an inviting little shop that also doubles as his design HQ, displaying sophisticated and traditionally inclined pieces.
GETTING THERE FROM CAPE TOWN
Follow the Eastern Boulevard towards Muizenberg (M3). Keep right to stay on the M3 (Muizenberg/Kirstenbosch). Pass UCT on your right and head towards a four-way set of traffic lights, staying left. Turn left into Newlands Avenue. Kildare, Palmboom and Dean Road all branch off from Newlands Avenue and feed on to Main Road.