SPIRIT OF THE CITY
Words Vicki Sleet
THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES SUBURB OF VREDEHOEK IS HOME TO AN INCREASINGLY COSMOPOLITAN CROWD WHO ARE HELPING TO BRING BACK ITS BUZZ
Until about seven or eight years ago, Vredehoek (translated as ‘Peaceful Corner’) was crammed with students, eking out a shoestring life in small, overcrowded flats that hadn’t seen much done to them since a cursory update in the Sixties. If they were lucky. Its resurgence was perhaps inevitable, what with a growing lack of space and character buildings to inhabit. Developers began to look to this suburb, whose history is intertwined with new beginnings in the city.
Vredehoek, which stretches from Buitenkant Street in the west to Derry Street to the east, has one of the largest concentrations of Art Deco buildings in any one suburb in the country and many of these were built during the Second World War. The area became home to a predominantly Jewish immigrant population that had relocated from Europe and settled in District Six, which was becoming something of a slum. Many of these Art Deco examples remain and their renovation has certainly added a new sheen to a suburb that, once many of the tight-knit Jewish families had moved on to larger properties on the Atlantic Seaboard, had frankly lost much of its spirit.
Renowned Cape Town food writer Phillippa Cheifitz grew up in Vredehoek Avenue in the late Forties and Fifties and remembers an incredible sense of community from her childhood. ‘We were always playing hopscotch in the street, then making our way to someone’s aunt’s or grandmother’s place for endless cups of tea and biscuits,’ she says. In those days, it was a far busier suburb during the day than it is now with most of its residents at work. ‘I can remember the cry of the fish horn on Fridays and on Thursdays the van from Abrahams the grocer would deliver your orders for the week,’ she explains. Nowadays, the Gardens Fish Shop (strictly in Gardens since it is on the other side of Buitenkant Street, but still regarded as a Vredehoek locale) is the last remaining vestige of this era – and though many regulars now live in other parts of the city, they still make their way to this familiar (and excellent) fish shop that has been in business for generations.
Today the demographic sways between twenty- and thirty-something singletons as well as young couples with kids and a smattering of older folk who have stayed in their flats for decades. Easy access to the CBD, affordable property prices (compared to others in the City Bowl) and like-minded neighbours explain the appeal. Though property prices have shot up dramatically over the past four years, rentals are still doable, and with sweeping city and ocean vistas and easy access to and views of the mountain, there’s plenty in Vredehoek’s favour.
Restaurateur Murray Carlyle knows all about tapping into the new spirit that permeates the suburb. His eatery and bar Carlyle’s, which he owns and runs with brother Robert, has been in business for five years and is still going strong. Though there’s no denying the pizzas are crispy based and perfectly cooked and the drinks well priced, Carlyle’s is that bar where everybody knows your name – and if they don’t, they will by the time you leave. ‘I think people enjoy the sense of community we have here. It’s become something of a haven for locals – you’re bound to bump into someone you know and it’s always comfortable to pop in alone for a quick supper and a drink,’ says Murray.
Fellow restaurateur Chris Lazari of his eponymous restaurant in the commercial lower reaches of Vredehoek, concurs. ‘There’s a fantastic spirit of rebirth here and I can see it in my clientele – there are so many vibrant and dynamic people who like the idea of living in the city but want to live in a place where they know their neighbours. It still feels like there’s a history here and there’s room to grow,’ he says. Lazari’s daytime hang-out is a different kettle of fish from Carlyle’s evening eatery and bar. The former services the many creatives and freelancers who work from home and revel in daily contact with others in the same boat, while the latter caters for city slickers who’re chasing deals in the day and tequila come nightfall. The common denominator, however, is that they’re absolutely comfortably at home in this mixed and vibrant city suburb.
WHERE TO GO A-WANDERING
Deer Park, also known as Van Riebeek Park, stretches along the lower slopes of Table Mountain and features a cement ‘boardwalk’ and a busy stream. The lower and grassier stretches of the park extend from the top of Deer Park Drive in a westerly direction towards Oranjezicht and are popular for dog walkers and daily strollers alike.
Some intrepid hikers and mountain bikers use the main entrance as a starting point for accessing the mountain proper via steep cardio-challenging gravel paths (park in the forest parking lot at the top of Deer Park Drive and enter through the booms). The Hoerikwaggo Table Mountain Trail takes hikers on a luxury three-day guided trail through the Table Mountain National Park, with catered overnight stays at various points. The first night of this trail, which starts with a cultural city tour, is spent at the sensitively restored Platteklip Wash House, decorated and furnished with products made by local craftspeople and artisans. Go to www.sanparks.org for more info.
DECO DETAILS
Vredehoek is one of the most Art Deco-rich suburbs in the country and lovers of this architectural style make a point of strolling the streets on their visits to the city. Arts journalist and Deco enthusiast Brent Meersman explains that most of these buildings, many of which have been beautifully restored, were built between 1938 and 1941, during World War II. Meersman suggests covering Wexford, Bellair and Davenport roads for a good idea of the Deco heritage of Vredehoek. Also, 25 – 27 St James Street for a peek at Geriva Mansions.
ARCHITECTURE EYESORES OR ICONS?
You can’t help noticing the trio of ‘Salt and Pepper Pots’ or ‘Tampon Towers’ at the top of Vredehoek. These three circular apartment buildings –individually named Blinkwater, Platteklip and Silverstroom and as a whole known as Disa Towers – were inspired by architectural legend Le Corbusier and the entire scheme cost some R2.5 million to build back in 1965. Standing at 61m or 17 storeys high with 301 flats in each, despite their obvious detraction from the view of the mountain, residents’ views are undoubtedly among the best in the city.
HAVEN OF HOPE
Built in 1888 for orphaned children and destitute elderly, Nazareth House in Derry Street has always been an important place of safety in the City Bowl. In 1992, the Sisters of Nazareth House opened their doors to abandoned and orphaned children suffering from Aids and they now cater for close to 400 children. Visit www.nazhouse.org.za to see how you can help.
MEET AND EAT
Lazari (021 461 9865) is one of the suburb’s most popular daytime eateries, especially on weekends when tables are like hens’ teeth. Owner Chris Lazari’s ebullience helps make first-time visitors feel like regulars from the get go. A microcosm of life in the City Bowl, at any one time, Lazari hums with the chatter of gay, straight, baby-boomer and longtime older residents who love nothing better than popping into their regular haunt for a lazy break-fast, a plate of comfort food or a caffeine fix.
Carlyle’s (021 461 8787) is the night-time haunt of Vredehoek young professionals who’d rather meet their mates for a drink and settle into a crispy-based pizza than head home or venture into the city proper. Wednesday and Friday nights are famous for raucous shenanigans. Home Again (021 465 8463) can be found next door to Carlyle’s and serves up home-style food along with Mediterranean tapas and their famous seared tuna. Sidewalk Cafe (021 461 2839) on Derry Street is a weekend staple – tuck into their well-priced breakfast specials and if there’s nothing pressing on your agenda, let the morning settle into an afternoon of cocktails alongside the local residents. Mums and their charges breathe a sigh of relief once they enter Deer Park Cafe (021 462 6311). Leading on to a fenced-in and safe (bar the very high slide) public park, it’s possible to let your littlies run off steam while you tuck into a glass of Chardonnay or a cappuccino. A popular family-friendly weekend haunt, feast on the varied and wholesome menu (which has plenty of suitable kid-friendly choices too). Yum (021 461 7607) serves laid-back, flavour-crammed fare – from burgers to wraps and fusion-style pastas. An excellent weekend brunch spot (try the flapjacks with banana, bacon and maple syrup). The adjacent lounge makes for mellow evening drinks and get-togethers. Bella Italia (021 461 0639) serves up meatballs like Mama used to make, rib-sticking pastas and a host of Italian specialities to grateful can’t-cook-won’t-cook local residents.
SHOPPING
Though it once bore the typical hallmarks of a vibrant community right down to Abrahams the grocer in Mill Street and Mrs Goldschmidt the milliner, both of whom were essential elements of life here in the Fifties, Vredehoek now has just a handful of retail and service sites.
Story (021 462 4889) is the lair of the talented Jacqui Fitzgerald. Her uniquely feminine style and her displays of ceramics, jewellery, fashion items and decorative wares for the home and boudoir are tempting for all who cross the threshold.
Across from Story, in the deconsecrated Vredehoek Synagogue is the Gilles Botbyl Carpet Gallery (021 461 7840). So much more than a carpet shop, this is where aficionados come to feed their decor wanderlust. Artefacts, objet and artworks sourced from the far corners of the globe rub shoulders with hand-hewn Afghani, Turkish and Iranian rugs and carpets.
SLEEPOVER
Visitors who opt to stay in this corner of the City Bowl are at an advantage thanks to the ease of access to the city from here, the views and the comparatively well-priced accommodation options.
Though there is not a large concentration of guest houses, there are a few private apartment/cottage rentals to choose from. Coffee Cottage (072 117 2180) is a small, safe and charming open-plan, self-catering space, complete with a generous outside patio and garden area.
With the short and simple ‘Cape Town Room’ (021 461 9652), guests are offered the security
of being close to the main living areas of this home, while still being afforded privacy (the room has its own entrance) and space in which to relax.
Eagle’s Nest (083 300 4833) has breathtaking views out across the City Bowl and up to Table Mountain and a number of air-conditioned suites, each with a private al fresco dining area. There is
a pool for lazy afternoons and the owners have plenty of good advice for enjoying your city stay.