beach music
Hip, moneyed or hippie, Plettenberg Bay is a top spot along the Cape’s Garden Route and offers much in the way of a holiday
The pleasures of Plett, as Plettenberg Bay is fondly known, are many. A generous bay often frequented by dolphins, whales and seals, backed by hillsides dotted with super-sized homes; with unspoiled beaches in the nearby reserves and variegated displays of fynbos and indigenous forest.
The once sleepy whaling station is sleepy no more and attracts many to its shimmering shore – party mavens who arrive in their private helicopters and planes, city-dwellers seeking simplicity, honeymooners, families, extreme sports enthusiasts and five-star foodies.
South Africans who’ve made good abroad keep holiday homes here – Lucille Lewin, founder of Whistles boutiques in London is one of them. Counted among the locals are a good number of creative sorts who add a certain innovative edge to the bustle of this seaside favourite. There is a degree of gauche too, but it doesn’t do much to detract from the glorious setting.
Part jet set, part eco destination, Plett is flash, basic or somewhere inbetween. On the stratospheric end of the luxury spectrum perches the polo set that frequents the several private polo estates and the state-of-the-art Kurland Estate between December and April. Viviana van Agtmaal, a polo player and enthusiast from Johannesburg, has been coming to Plett for the past five years. ‘You can’t beat the fantastic facilities,’ she says, ‘and the beautiful setting draws a great mix of local and international polo enthusiasts.’
This lot are a mix of families (mostly from Johannesburg), who descend on Plett as a holiday tradition, and younger twenty-somethings, paid-to-play polo players who love to party hardy. The families play polo, mingle at swank estates or spend the day at the nearby Nature’s Valley beaches or perhaps stay at Hunter’s Country Estate or in the centre of town at the Relais & Château Plettenberg hotel. Alternatively, they rent or own luxury holiday villas complete with their own pool, jacuzzi, views and staff.
The rest indulge in lavish house parties in the above-mentioned villas or spend their wee hours at the Kurland’s bar. Central Plett meeting places include the well-stocked bar at Cornutis or the sophisticated Sandbar in the posh Plettenberg hotel. Quirky Grand Café is fast becoming another hangout where patrons can enjoy the tongue-in-cheek decadent elegance and an eclectic, well-turned-out menu. This is also a fantastic spot to stay.
Polo is not the only game in town and spectacular gourmet meals can be had at Tsala, Hunters and Sand – a visit to their award-winning wine cellars (with auction, vintage and international choices) can be a vacation in itself. Golf addicts will find that there’s no shortage of fine golf courses all along the Garden Route beginning with Plett’s own Plettenberg Bay Country Club and Goose Valley, offering luxury accommodation near and on the course.
Serious shoppers looking to spend bucks on luxe can head to Homework for feminine clothing or take the better part of the afternoon to explore the rambling Old House where anything from luxury linens and quirky kitchen finery to resort wear and treats for the bath can be found. Pezula Interiors is another good spot for deccies and carries everything from well-made African crafts to imported glass and linen accessories.
If mink and manure or mayhem (especially in season) is not quite your idea of escape, there are other ways to enjoy this area – a more casual, earthy lot also make Plett their playground. Barry Cutler and his family have been coming to a charming campsite, Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park, on the banks of the Keurbooms River since 1978. ‘It’s about time with family and friends,’ says Barry. ‘A while back it kept our kids children for longer and now does that for our grandkids – it strips away that city need to be cool.’
The front door of ‘Bali Hi’ (their own caravan) is steps away from the water’s edge. Days are spent swimming or wading in the estuary to the beach and bird sanctuary across the way, taking a hop upriver on their boat and stopping for a swim in the glorious brackish water, followed by a picnic on any one of the tiny, usually unoccupied beaches.
In the evenings they head for The Lookout Deck perched above Lookout Beach (now washed away due to recent flooding) and then share a braai with neighbours, or join the lively crowds at the Rod and Reel, where sassy waitresses serve serious portions of meat, fish and chips.
Within the Keurbooms area are boating, ferry rides, waterskiing, fishing, and the Old Nick Village, a collection of shops and studios that offers an interesting selection of fine and unusual arts and crafts. Watching whales and dolphins frolic while munching on delicious calamari or the catch of the day at the informal Ski Boat Club located at Central Beach is a good way to spend a few lazy hours. But don’t even try to get through the door on a Friday night when locals crowd together to share a pint and gossip.
Stock up for provisions at the Harvest Time Saturday Market, on the N2, where organic veggies and eggs, artesian cheeses and other goodies can be purchased after a hearty breakfast and a look around at the artists’ studios (also open during the week).
For some, winding down includes the thrills and chills of extreme sports so head to the world’s highest commercial bungee jump on the Bloukrans River Bridge to take the (gulp) 216m leap. Then cross over the highway to Fynboshoek Cheese for an unforgettable taste experience hosted by Alje, the owner and award-winning cheese maker. Cheeses are served with crusty bread and salads on his veranda and idyllic sloping back garden. Or take a drive to Ristorante Enrico for a mellow Sunday lunch at picnic tables overlooking the beach below.
Keep in mind that Plett enjoys quite mild weather in the winter months (May to September) and reverts to a gentler pace, though high summer is a fantastic time to enjoy sun, sand and sea too. After
a while here you might feel, like Barry, that you ‘wouldn’t give it up for the world’.
The Cutlers’ address book
Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park
On the Lagoon 8 National Road. 044 533 2567, info@keurboomslagoon.co.za
www.keurboomslagoon.co.za
Site rates begin at R360 in season for car park and tent or caravan accommodating four people.
Hog Hollow
Take the N2 towards Port Elizabeth. About 18 km after Plett, turn right at Hog Hollow/Barnyard into Askop Road and drive for a further 13 km. 044 534 8879
www.hog-hollow.com
15 suites with views of the Tsitsikamma mountains
From R1 056 per person per night (single B&B) and from R1 550 per person per night (double B&B)
Harvest Time Saturday Market
Tau Pottery, Harkerville, off the N2 between Knysna and Plett. 084 510 9939
8 am – 12 midday, Saturdays
Ski Boat Club
Central Beach. 044 533 4147
Opens at 8 am every day, kitchen closes at 8:30 pm
Keurbooms River Ferry
On the N2 towards Port Elizabeth, go over the Keurbooms River Bridge and turn left into the Keurbooms Nature Reserve. The road leads to a parking area. Keurbooms River Ferry pays your nature reserve entry fee. Daily rentals and tours. 044 532 7876 or 083 254 3551
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Ristorante Enrico
296 Main Street, Keurboomstrand. 044 535 9818 or 082 970 9252
Fynboshoek Cheese
Across from the Tsitsikamma Lodge off the N2 (Forest Ferns exit). Contact Alje or Ima (booking is essential) 042 280 3879
The Lookout Deck
Lookout Beach. 044 533 1379
Open every day from 9 am – 10:30 pm
Rod and Reel
Castleton, Piesang Valley Road. 044 533 0165 (booking essential in season)
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Old Nick Village
Off the N2, away from the ocean side. 044 533 1395
Open daily 9 am – 5pm
Bloukrans River Bridge
Bungee Jumping
042 281 1458, www.faceadrenalin.com
Daily 8 am – 5 pm
Viviana’s Haute Haunts
Kurland Country Hotel and Estate
Off the N2, 20 km east of Plett. 044 534 8082
From December to the Easter holidays, the international polo set comes to run its ponies, but players practise all year round. Child friendly (kids under five are free and under 12 free except for December and January)
Homework
Market Square. 044 533 0068
Monday to Friday 9 am – 5 pm, Saturdays and Sundays till 1 pm
Grand Café and Rooms
27 Main Road. 044 533 3301, www.thegrand.co.za
Open Monday to Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Sunday for breakfast and brunch.
The Plettenberg
40 Church Street, Lookout Rocks. 044 533 2030
Sand restaurant at The Plettenberg
Open daily for breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner
Sandbar at The Plettenberg
Open daily from 11 am
NH Plettenberg Bay
33 N2 Rietvlei. 044 533 3572
Ilanga Restaurant at the NH Plettenberg Bay
Open daily from 7 am – 10:30 pm
Jabulani Bar at the NH Plettenberg Bay
Open daily 10:30 am – 12 midnight
Cornuti al Mare Restaurant and Bar
1 Perestrella Street. 044 533 1277
Daily from noon – 11 pm
Hunter’s Country House
10 km from Plett along the N2 towards Knysna. 044 532 7818
Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner (bookings essential). Seating for dinner between 7:30 and 8:30 pm
Tsala Treetop Lodge
Located in the same complex as Hunter’s Country House. 044 532 8228
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner (please book ahead)
Pezula Interiors
23 Main Street. 044 533 2751
www.pezula-interiors.com
Monday to Friday 8:30 am – 5 pm, Saturday 9 am – 1 pm
Plettenberg Bay Country Golf Club
Piesang Valley Road. 044 533 2132
Goose Valley Golf Club
On the N2 towards Port Elizabeth. 044 533 5082
Goose Valley Accommodation
On the N2 towards Port Elizabeth. 044 533 0527, www.plettaccom.co.za
Something for Everyone
Tsitsikamma Forest and Nature’s Valley
Accommodation, campsites, day hikes and beaches. Nature’s Valley is 30 km from Plett towards Port Elizabeth, off the N2. The National Park is 70 Km from Plett, also off the N2. 044 531 6700 or 082 523 2296, www.sanparks.org
Plettenberg Bay Tourism Centre
044 533 4065, www.plettenbergbay.co.za