into the blue
Leave Cape Town
Packed bikini, sunscreen, books, hat, candles, white cotton, sandals, caftan, wine and lots of good food. An inevitable rush leaving the city, traffic on the N1, minor road raging at the taxis. This bit turns the adage on its head – in this case, it’s the destination and not the journey.
Reach the R27
The sign reads West Coast and like stepping sideways, the road calms and soon we’re heading into miles of fynbos and see the smooth Atlantic shimmering in the distance. Straight road, good for chatting and singalongs while the city loosens its grip.
West Coast National Park, speed limit 50 km/h
Slow pace and unsullied surrounds. Ostriches on the road, a quiet ocean to the left and the lagoon at high tide to the right. Wonder why it’s taken me so long to come back. Wind down the windows to feel the air – sunny, lush, laden with salt and birdsong. This is a meditation without trying.
See a speckle of houseboats in a soft bay
Call Anderson, who will ferry us to the boat. He appears shortly, looking like an island man – bare feet and braids, sleepy eyes and a cool accent. Take off our shoes and pad along the wooden pier. Blue to the bottom, scurrying sand sharks and dipping cormorants. On the water – so flat, soothing, rhythmic and quietly alive. Think of my mum quoting Lawrence Durrell when faced with water like this: ‘Somewhere between Calabria and Corfu, the blue really begins.’ This could be Greece.
The floating marvel that’s to be our home
Spend a bit of time admiring our double-storey, all-singing, all-dancing, luxurious houseboat. Have a moment of childlike wonder feeling like the old lady who lived in a shoe or any of the other lucky people who populate nursery rhyme homes. Settle on one of the decks, feet dangling in the water – it’s warm! – and watch the sky’s evening show and watery reflections until it’s inky and lined with moonlight. To bed with starshine and a lapping lullaby.
Wake to the beating of wings
A large flock of cormorants is taking off with a characteristic dart along the surface of the water and furious flapping. How lovely to be among them in their element, watching their mid-ocean ritual. Moody morning light, quiet otherwise. Dip in the lagoon before breakfast and exploring.
Treading gently
Fossilised human footprints called ‘Eve’s footprints’ by some were found at Kraalbaai – where we’re floating – in 1997. The substrate dates as 117 000 years old. Say a quiet thank you to conservationism as I pop under the water. Happy that some of the Cape is still protected, this specific piece of it is one of the world’s most important wetland areas. This has to last, there is no better way to fall in love with the earth and want to protect it.
Churchhaven
Return to shore and visit the tiny, sun-bleached and tender hamlet. Walk between the shacks, some one-room, some considerably larger but sensitively done. It’s deserted but for a few old people, their features echoing the environment – weathered and peaceful. Their rolling goeie môres are a gift to the ears and heart. Wander along the edge of the lagoon, making the only footprints in the patterned sand. These too will soon be washed away. Halted by the sight of a manta ray gliding by in the clear water, a pink flamingo feather or a fisherman’s pretty boat.
Memories of holidays passed
Living in one of the beach shacks. Waking at dawn for skinny-dips in the line of the sun as it rises. Fetching water from the well and bathing in the kom (a shallow metal basin). Reading aloud to each other. Watching the kingfishers feeding. Brilliant meals that taste heavenly in the fresh air. Rituals slowed and relished with nothing to do but be.
To bed, to sleep, perchance to dream
Return to the boat for a good nap. All this fresh air! Wake and take the canoe out, paddling among the other boats and to the shallows – more rays and schools of silvery fish gleaming in the sun under the canoe.
WHERE TO STAY
Langebaan Houseboats. 021 689 9718 / 082 258 0929
0832693449, www.houseboating.co.za langebaanhouseboats@mweb.co.za
Whalers Way. 021 790 2928 / 082 775 7797
www.vines.co.za
ESSENTIALS
* Try to go during the week if you can for isolation
* Candlelight – don’t bother with electricity (most places have lamps)
* Sunscreen and a hat
* Swimming costume or not if you prefer to go natural
* Something warm for the evening or a big fluffy throw
* Journal or sketchpad
* Books
* Mosquito repellent
* Roberts’ book of birds
* Breathable threads
* A good pair of plastic beach sandals, getting to the beach can be treacherous because of sharp rocks and thorns
* Chocolate and lots of food
* Drinking water
FOOD IS IMPORTANT IN THE FRESH AIR
This makes a great lunch and is one of my favourites originally put together by my lovely sister Sarah:
* Smoked chicken cut into strips
* Nectarines also cut into strips
* Butter lettuce or a mixed bag
* A handful of coriander – add as you wish
* Feta – again, as you wish
The dressing:
* Equal parts olive oil and apple cider vinegar, about a centimetre each in the bottom of a jar
* Teaspoon sugar
* A good pinch of salt and a bit more ground pepper
* Teaspoon paprika
Shake vigorously and pour over the salad
Serve with seed loaf and a good glass of Haute Cabrière Pinot Noir Chardonnay
Other top lagoon foods – easy to transport and prepare:
* Couscous salad of red pepper, tuna, chilli, orange segments, finely chopped parsley and olives
* Green figs and blue cheese on Carr’s water biscuits
* Ham and salad sandwiches
* French toast and All Gold tomato sauce
* Toasted syrup waffles topped with black cherry yoghurt from Woolies